Mexican cookery of 1840s Bexar.

Gentlemen, let this serve as your reminder that Mother's Day fast approaches. Forget that day at your own peril. Mark the day with this book and perhaps a fine homemade tortilla soup will be your reward.

For years, there was a particular Texas cookbook that escaped my grasp. It was published in 1936 and contains the Mexican food recipes of a family that lived in San Antonio, Laredo, Goliad, and Mexico from the 1840s onward.

Not Tex-Mex, mind you. No, I wanted to be able to cook the fare that early Texans were met with when they came to Mexican Texas.

Enchiladas, mole, tamales and, of course, chili.

Well, I got my hands on a copy at long last. A few things jumped out at me:

Neither of the chili con carne recipes swerve into bean territory, although beans are suggested as a side. Interesting to see the no-bean tradition reflected across generations.
Queso on toasted bread? Alrighty, then. It works for fondue, so I'll give it a go.
Tortilla soup has been the best thing going since at least the 1840s.

I decided that this rare gem of cookery was due for a comeback. It hasn't been in print since the Texas Centennial. It's the best way to kick off Copano Bay Press' 20th year.

While flour tortillas, cumin, and fajitas aren't there (the bedrock of Tex-Mex) the book offers plenty of reasons to seek solace in the kitchen:

Chalupas (chicken and avocado varieties)
Tacos (chorizo, shrimp, San Luis)
Tortillas (corn)
Enchiladas (pork, cheese, verde)
Tamales (traditional + baked tamales and tamale pie)
Soups (tortilla, lentil, creamed tomato, fish, tapioca)
Moles (kettle, country, and green)
Chicken (with chiles and beans, crazy sauce and almond sauce)
Chili
Beans (refried and black)

1840s tortilla soup and enchiladas, Texas-tested for generations from scratch? 'Tis the season! Chili flavored with homemade ancho chili paste? Nothing better. Stewed calves' feet? Above my pay grade.

The story of how this book came to be deserves an email of its own. You can read all about Pinkie Jane Taylor and her family by clicking the link below.

It's a personalized limited edition, so your name (or whatever name you specify) will appear on the dust jacket flap: